The North Face®, the world’s premier supplier of authentic, innovative and technically advanced outdoor apparel, equipment and footwear, announced on 20th December 2007 that sponsored mountaineer, Simone Moro, will soon attempt the first ever wintertime climb of Broad Peak also called K3—an 8,047-meter peak in the Karakorum range of Northern Pakistan. On December 30, the Bergamo, Italy-based Moro will leave 2007 behind, ringing in the new year by departing for his eleven-week expedition to Broad Peak. The expedition is exceptional for multiple reasons.
First, Broad Peak has never been climbed during the brutal winter months. In fact, only eight of the world’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks have been summitted during the winter, when unpredictable weather and fatally low temperatures add new danger to the already inherent risks of high altitude mountaineering. This season, Moro and his Pakistani climbing partner, Shaheen Baig, will encounter additional adversity from the extreme weather currently plaguing Pakistan. Extended storms have resulted in an unusually deep snow pack on the Baltoro Glacier, which covers much of Broad Peak.
What’s more, all but one of these past high-altitude winter climbs took place between 1980 and 1988—and all the climbers were Polish. The exception was the January 2005 ascent of Shishapangma (8,027 m) by Moro and Polish climber, Piotr Morawski.
If anyone is qualified for a mid-winter Broad Peak expedition, it is infact Moro. An impassioned climber since the age of 13, he has made over 30 major mountaineering expeditions, six of which were during the wintertime. His climbing resume boasts three Mt. Everest summits, and ascents of four other 8,000-meter peaks, including a remarkably fast summertime climb of Broad Peak during 2003.
"Simone is widely regarded as both a very skilled climber, and a very safe climber,” said Patrik Frisk, Vice-President and General Manager of The North Face EMEA. “His intuition about pushing his own boundaries epitomizes the mission of The North Face. “We are enormously proud of Simone, and are excited to support him on his Broad Peak expedition," he added.
During their summit attempt, Moro and Baig will approach base camp via a six-day trek along the Baltoro Glacier. From base camp, the intended route is along the West ridge spur to Camp I at 5,600 meters. Then the route passes through rocky pillars to the higher glacier and Camps II and III. After reaching the col, the final leg of the route is up the dangerous and exposed final ridge, where conditions vary greatly year-to-year.
Moro will document his expedition through still images and high-definition video. In addition to in-field reporting, he intends to use the footage for a documentary film project. “I love communication,” explained Moro. “I like to tell as many people as possible what I am able and not able to do during my expeditions. I am trying to allow people at home to live my experiences, and also to perceive all the simple but great sensations I feel while climbing these mountains.”
For progress reports from Moro during his Broad Peak expedition, visit www.simonemoro.com.
